Madagascar had been on our travel wish list for years. Lemurs, chameleons, baobab trees, and landscapes found nowhere else on Earth kept pulling us back to the idea. Yet political instability in late 2025—the president was ousted and fled the country—made us hesitant. We also met a traveler whose father had been living in Madagascar but returned to France because deteriorating infrastructure had made daily life increasingly difficult. Internet service and utilities were frequently interrupted.
So we put Madagascar on the back burner. But it kept calling to us.
Eventually we decided to approach it the same way we had approached Ethiopia: hire a tour company rather than organize everything ourselves. Looking back, that was absolutely the right decision.
We quickly discovered why independent travel can be challenging. Madagascar had the worst roads of any African country we visited.
I rarely get carsick and can usually read in a moving vehicle—a lucky gift when you spend months traveling. But after hours of relentless bouncing, swerving around potholes, navigating washed-out road edges, and crossing muddy stream beds, even I had to put away my book and tablet. These were the main roads. Venturing off them was often even more extreme.
As I’ve mentioned in previous posts, African roads can be chaotic and nerve-wracking. The saddest moment of our trip came when we passed an accident that had happened only minutes earlier. Two bodies lay beneath blood-stained sheets beside a crumpled motorcycle and small truck. It was a sobering reminder of the risks people face on these roads every day.
Madagascar is one of the poorest countries in the world, and the contrast between the tourist experience and everyday life was impossible to ignore.
In the capital, we stayed in what felt like a protected tourist enclave—a heavily secured area designed to keep visitors comfortable. From our hotel window, however, we could look directly into sprawling shanty towns where a polluted stream carrying sewage and garbage wound through the community.
Outside the cities, many people lived without electricity or reliable access to clean water…Everywhere we went in Madagascar, we saw carts being pulled by their cow called a Zebu, with large containers of water. And outside the cities, all the women did the laundry in the closest river or lake and set it out to dry in the fields. For the laundry that was hung out to dry right near the roads, dust and exhaust coated them.
As tourists, we had our pick of budget, mid-tier or luxury accommodations in the areas we visited (we went with mid-tier). And in the northern area of Madagascar there are many small islands that have become tourist havens for Europeans – many Italians and French go there because of the warm weather, tropical beaches and low prices. Ex-pats mostly live in the beach areas.
We traveled to three distinct areas in Madagascar, trying to see as many distinct lemur species as we could without covering the entire country. We also prioritized seeing chameleons and geckos, snakes and frogs since they are soooo colorful and different than what we’re used to.
The first area was a combination of a couple of National Parks – Andasibe, Mantadia Analamazaotra. Tourists go on guided walks in the hot and muggy forests listening intently for the rustling of tree branches or the calls between the lemurs. There are also conservancies where the animals/reptiles have been collected together so that they are easier to see. We visited 3 different conservancies – one that had reptiles and amphibians, one for monkeys and one for birds. All of these were great to visit and in fact we visited the reptile and amphibian place twice because you could handle the habituated chameleons, geckos and snakes without getting bitten or squeezed. We saw the different varieties of lemurs in this area living up high in the trees and jumping long distances between trees and branches. They are so unique looking – cat-like face and a monkey body. They all have really nice fur coats. There is a subspecies of lemurs called sifakas that have longer back legs, shorter front legs and are able to make longer leaps through the trees. The sifakas walk on their hind legs when they are on the ground in a sideways manner – they are dubbed the dancing lemurs because they walk upright but bounce along sideways. We didn’t get to see them do this but I have seen it on nature shows and it is really fun to watch.
The next area we went to was one of the islands in the northern area of the country – the beach resort area. We went there to scuba dive. The scuba diving was really good – saw many hawksbill turtles, lots of rays, one moray eel, and one white-tipped shark along with many beautiful fish. We also did an excursion on the island to a nature reserve where we saw different species of lemurs and had lunch in an off-the-grid fishing village. Our guide brought along some mashed banana that he put on our hands and we had lemurs leaping onto us and eating out of our hands. It was a hoot to have these gentle furry creatures on my head, shoulders and arms. Along the beaches, the locals set up massage tables (rickety wooden tables). Mike had a 60 minute massage for 5 Euros! He was pleasantly surprised that he got a decent massage for that rock bottom price.
The final area we went to was on the West coast – Morondava. The big tourist draws there are the baobab trees and the Tsingy national park which has wild limestone rock formations. There are also lemurs living in that part of the country and we saw a couple of new species. While they didn’t climb on us (no banana enticement), they were curious about us and got super close as they climbed down to the ground, foraging for food. The Alley of the Baobabs is definitely worth seeing – especially at sunset. We also went during sunrise but that was skippable. These baobabs are massive. The Tsingy National Park was so much fun because we love scrambling up and over rocks, through tunnels and over suspension bridges. Much of it is set up with cables that you clip your harness onto so that you don’t fall on the very sharp, pointy rocks. If you don’t like exposure or heights, don’t do this. The landscape is so unique. Instead you can watch the Obama narrated nature series – Our Great National Parks – which showcases parks around the world. The first episode has a segment on Tsingy that focuses on the Decken’s sifakas who live there. We weren’t fortunate enough to see the sifakas – just enjoyed the scrambling and hiking.
Summary
In the end, we’re very glad we finally made it to Madagascar.
Few places pack so much biodiversity into a relatively small area. In just a couple of weeks we saw lemurs found nowhere else on Earth, brilliantly colored chameleons that looked almost mythical, giant baobab trees, pristine beaches, and one of the most unusual landscapes we’ve ever hiked through.
Madagascar isn’t always easy. The roads are rough, infrastructure can be unreliable, and travel often requires patience.
But those challenges are part of what has allowed the island to remain so unique. For travelers willing to embrace a little discomfort, Madagascar offers experiences that simply can’t be found anywhere else.
History and Modern Madagascar
If you’re interested in the history of the country, here is a summary I asked ChatGPT to provide:
The history of Madagascar is unusually distinct because the island developed separately from mainland Africa for millions of years — biologically and culturally. Its people, language, and traditions reflect a blend of Southeast Asian, African, Arab, and European influences.
Early Settlement (around 500–1000 CE)
- Madagascar was one of the last large landmasses settled by humans.
- The first settlers likely arrived by canoe from what is now Indonesia and possibly Malaysia.
- Later migrants came from East Africa, especially Bantu-speaking peoples.
- Arab traders also influenced the coasts through trade and Islam.
- This mixture created the Malagasy people and the Malagasy language, which is more closely related to Indonesian languages than African ones.
- This unusual blend explains why many Malagasy traditions, foods, musical styles, and even rice cultivation resemble Southeast Asia as much as Africa.
Rise of Kingdoms (1500s–1800s)
- Over time, regional kingdoms emerged.
- Slave trading existed both internally and externally.
- Coastal peoples traded heavily with Arabs and Europeans.
- Zebu cattle became central to wealth and culture.
European Contact and Colonization
- The island was known to Europeans after Portuguese explorer Diogo Dias sighted it in 1500.
- For centuries, Europeans struggled to control Madagascar because:
- the interior highlands were difficult to conquer,
- disease was severe for outsiders,
- and local kingdoms were strong.
- Eventually, France established dominance.
- 1885: Madagascar became a French protectorate.
- 1896: France formally annexed the island as a colony.
- The last queen, Ranavalona III, was exiled
Independence and Political Instability
- Madagascar gained independence from France in 1960.
- The country then experienced repeated cycles of:
- military influence,
- contested elections,
- protests,
- economic struggles.
Today, Madagascar is known for:
- extraordinary biodiversity – about 90% of its wildlife species are endemic — found nowhere else.
- lemurs found nowhere else on Earth,
- vanilla production,
- mining,
- ecotourism.
However, the country also faces major challenges:
- poverty,
- deforestation,
- cyclone damage,
- infrastructure limitations,
- political uncertainty.
Why Madagascar Feels So Different
- Malagasy language,
- architecture,
- rice terraces,
- burial traditions,
- music,
- and Asian influences mixed with African traditions.
That blend is one of the reasons Madagascar fascinates historians, anthropologists, and travelers alike.
Note: I used ChatGPT to help polish portions of this post while keeping my own experiences and observations intact.