Note: I used AI to enliven this blog
Jordan was next on our itinerary. We were set to leave Tunisia and fly to Jordan—to see Wadi Rum and Petra, two places fellow travelers spoke about with awe. We were genuinely excited.
And then that region of the world ignited.
Israel and the United States entered into conflict with Iran, and the Middle East suddenly felt like a powder keg. Travel there no longer seemed wise, and just like that, Jordan was off the table.
Mike stepped in with his usual calm competence and managed to cancel all of our accommodations without penalty. Then we waited—and were rewarded when Air Canada canceled our flight, also with no penalty. A frustrating pivot, but a clean one.
So…where to go instead?
Tunisia sits tantalizingly close to Sicily and the toe of Italy’s boot, and at first I thought a ferry to Sicily might be the perfect substitute. We explored other African destinations as well, but between ongoing conflicts and less-than-ideal flight options, nothing felt quite right.
Then Mike turned to one of his enduring passions—classic cars. He had his sights set on seeing where Ferraris are made. He started digging into routes to Italy and quickly discovered that flying to Rome was not only easier than the ferry—it made far more sense. How serendipitous!
And just like that, the trip transformed.
We mapped out a northern Italy circuit: Rome, Florence, and Venice, with side trips to Maranello and Modena for Ferrari and Maserati immersion. We added two places I hadn’t visited before—Verona and Cinque Terre. All connected by easy train rides.
It was Mike’s first time in Italy, so I immediately went into planning mode—pre-booking tickets to the major sights in Rome, Florence, and Venice. Not easy at the last minute, but March is not high tourist season. We were able to secure everything we wanted except the Borghese Gallery.
Rome: Walking It All In
We started in Rome, staying in a small pension in a neighborhood that made everything walkable—the Colosseum, Roman Forum, Palatine Hill, Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, Vatican City, and the Spanish Steps.
For three days we walked constantly—truly putting our runner’s legs to work. We even did a sightseeing run that pushed us beyond the historic center to viewpoints of the city from beautiful parks.
Rome felt different to me this time. Less overwhelming. More approachable. Almost intimate in a way I hadn’t experienced before.
We also attended two live performances of operatic music—both incredibly moving. One of my favorite parts of this trip was sharing Rome with Mike. Showing him these places made them feel new again. His observations, his humor, his constant stream of puns—it added a fresh layer to everything.
Florence: Climbing for the View
From Rome we took the train to Florence and settled into a well-located Airbnb near Santa Croce.
If Rome was about distance, Florence was about elevation. We climbed two separate towers overlooking the city—lots of steps, and steeper than expected. (At some point you stop counting.) Conquering these towers were worth every step.
Even in March, Florence felt crowded—even more so than Rome—and we encountered far more American tourists than we had in other countries on this trip.
Instead of hiring guides, we leaned heavily on digital resources: ChatGPT, Rick Steves audio tours, and travel podcasts—many with maps and transcripts. We’d listen ahead of time so we arrived oriented and informed.
Did this approach replace a live guide? Mostly, yes. The exception was the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel in Rome, where we did use a guide—and were very glad we did. It’s vast, crowded, and easy to miss context without someone leading you through.
Venice: Water, Rhythm, and Music
We stayed at a hotel on Murano, the island known for the lovely Murano glass. It was quieter than the main city, which we appreciated—but it meant taking a vaporetto (ferry) every time we wanted to head into Venice proper. By the end of our stay, we had the ferry system down and felt just a little bit like locals.
We attended another operatic performance here—this time with performers in full costume. It added a fun theatrical layer for us, though we couldn’t help but think how warm and cumbersome those costumes must have been under the lights.
Food: A Surprising Take
I’ve made it this far without mentioning the food, which probably says something.
I’m not a food-focused traveler—I don’t seek out restaurants or local specialties like almost every other traveler I know. Mainly because I am a picky eater but also because I prioritize everything else above the food aspect of travel. Mike is similar to me but he yearns for home food and had high hopes for Italian food. After Tunisia (where we didn’t love the food), he was ready for Italy: pizza, pasta, bread, ice cream.
He quickly learned that gelato is supreme in Italy, not ice cream—and made the adjustment with enthusiasm. The gelato really was outstanding. We gravitated toward fruit flavors—limone (lemon), fragola (strawberry), and especially amarena (candied sour cherries in syrup), all with intense, clean flavors.
But the surprise of the trip? The pizza and pasta were…disappointing.
I thought about this a lot, especially given Italy’s reputation. On my previous trips (20+ years ago), I remember the food as incredibly fresh and delicious. This time, it was all right—but not exceptional.
In comparison to what we now have in the U.S.—with its local food movement, California cuisine, and global influences—northern Italy felt like it hadn’t evolved as much.
I mentioned this to our friend Pat, an avid traveler and an excellent cook. She offered an interesting perspective: northern Italy may be resting on its culinary reputation, while the U.S. and southern Italy have continued to innovate and improve.
Others may have had the opposite experience—but for us, the food tasted a bit dated.
Verona: A Quieter Interlude
From Venice we headed to Verona, a smaller city with a small amount of tourists – mainly avid Romeo and Juliet fans, who flock to Juliet’s balcony and her statue. Beyond that draw, there are many interesting churches and an impressive fort. And a lovely river that meanders through the town.
We went for a sightseeing run and appreciated the relative lack of crowds and traffic. It felt like a pause in the trip—a chance to slow down and take things in more quietly.
Modena & Maranello: Ferrari Dreams Realized
Then came the highlight for Mike: Modena and Maranello.
He got to drive a convertible Ferrari—and not just casually. At one point he reached 112 mph on narrow Italian country roads.
I sat in the back seat (if you can call the cramped space a seat), quietly focusing on keeping us safe—mentally clearing the road of oncoming cars and debris. Thankfully, it worked.
It was exhilarating. A true adrenaline rush.
We visited one Maserati museum, two Ferrari museums, and did a Ferrari factory “tour” (which consisted mainly of driving past buildings—not worth it).
My favorite museum exhibit featured Ferraris once owned by famous musicians, including Luciano Pavarotti, Maria Callas, Lady Gaga, Cher, John Lennon, Miles Davis, Mick Jagger, Eric Clapton, and Nick Mason. Each display explained why the musician chose that particular model—it added a personal, unexpected dimension to the collection.
My favorite museum in this area was the childhood and adult home of Luciano Pavarotti. It is in the countryside and is such a welcoming place decorated with his own colorful artwork and amazing photos and memorabilia from his life. The museum succeeds in providing a mirror to see this masterful musician and selfless humanitarian. Could they have had much more of his music playing as one wanders through the house? — Yes!
Cinque Terre: A Perfect Day
From there we traveled to Cinque Terre and stayed in an Airbnb with a stunning view overlooking the harbor and the Mediterranean.
It wasn’t quite warm enough to swim, but we had one of the best days of the trip there.
We spent the day trail running and climbing the paths that connect the five towns—steep, scenic, and constantly changing views. Every turn felt like a postcard.
After covering multiple segments on foot, we hopped on the train to return to our starting point.
The weather that day turned warmer—finally feeling like spring—and everything about it just clicked. The flowers were blooming, birds were happily chirping and we were panting along the trail (also happily).
Back to Rome: Ending in Style
We returned to Rome for a final few days, this time staying in a more upscale hotel.
The amenities were wonderful. The prices were…memorable. I paid €10 for a can of soda—the most I’ve ever spent on one soda. Fortunately, American Express credits covered all of our food and drink and about 90% of our lodging, so the sting was minimal.
We attended one final musical performance—a piano recital featuring mostly Frédéric Chopin. These small, intimate performances in churches became one of the unexpected highlights of Italy for us.
A Personal Note: Citizenship
While we were in Italy, Mike encouraged me to explore whether I might qualify for Italian citizenship by descent. My grandmother was born there in 1909, in Portocorvo, so it seemed possible.
I reached out to an Italian firm and, after a few email exchanges, got a definitive answer: No. My great-grandfather naturalized in the U.S. before my grandmother reached adulthood, which automatically made her a U.S. citizen and ended her Italian citizenship. Disappointing—but at least now I know.
Next step: exploring Greek citizenship through my grandfather. An EU passport still has its appeal.
Looking Back
What began as a disrupted plan turned into something unexpectedly rich. Two weeks. Six destinations. Endless steps. Music, movement, views, and a Ferrari at 112 mph.
And along the way, Italy reclaimed its spot of being my favorite European destination.