Note: I used AI to enliven this blog
We spent eight days in Tunisia, a country perched on the northern edge of Africa, so close to Sicily that the Mediterranean almost seems to pull the two together. Libya lies to the east, Algeria to the west. Tunisians tend to feel a cultural kinship with Algeria but little affection for Libya, which many view as repressive and undeserving of its oil wealth.
Progressive and Predominantly Muslim
Among Muslim countries, Tunisia is considered relatively progressive. Women enjoy greater freedoms than in many neighboring nations, and the country has aligned itself with more modern, outward-looking societies.
Still, as much as I enjoyed parts of Tunisia, it inevitably suffered in comparison with Morocco and Egypt—two extraordinary countries we had visited earlier on this trip. Tunisia felt quieter, less impactful, and sometimes less tuned in to what visitors might be hoping to experience.
Part of our timing worked against us. We arrived during Ramadan. During the day, restaurants were largely closed, and when evening finally came it brought a confusing ritual for travelers. At sundown many restaurants served only a fixed Ramadan menu for locals breaking their fast—traditional Tunisian dishes that didn’t particularly excite us. Other restaurants offered regular menus, but not until 8 p.m. or later. The tricky part was that you often wouldn’t know which was which until you asked the restaurant staff.
Amazing Ruins, Mosaics and Beautiful Seaside Vistas
Most of our stay was spent in two seaside towns along Tunisia’s Mediterranean coast – Tunis and Sousse. The northern and eastern edges of the country are wrapped in luminous blue water, and the coastal setting is undeniably beautiful. Inland lies a dramatically different landscape—the Sahara Desert—which has served as a backdrop for several films, including parts of the Star Wars saga. Devoted fans make pilgrimages to the desert village of Tataouine and other filming sites, but we skipped that adventure and focused instead on Tunisia’s ancient ruins.
And that is where Tunisia truly shines.
The highlight of the trip for me was visiting the ruins of Carthage and the magnificent Roman amphitheater at El Djem.
Carthage was once one of the most powerful cities in the Mediterranean world. Walking through the ruins overlooking the sea, it’s easy to imagine the Phoenician empire that once dominated trade across the region—until Rome destroyed the city in 146 BCE after the Punic Wars.
El Djem, however, delivers drama. The massive Roman colosseum rises from the flat countryside like a mirage in stone. Built in the third century, it once held around 35,000 spectators who gathered to watch gladiators battle in the arena. Unlike Rome’s Colosseum, El Djem feels surprisingly accessible—you can wander through its corridors, climb the stands, and stand on the arena floor imagining the roar of an ancient crowd.
Tunisia’s museums also preserve extraordinary Roman mosaics. Many remain remarkably colorful after nearly two thousand years, depicting mythological scenes, animals, and everyday life.
Crowded Medinas and Souks
We made a brief visit to the medina of Tunis, the old walled city filled with narrow alleys and bustling markets. Having already explored numerous medinas and souks in Morocco, we weren’t eager to dive into another maze of shops. Still, curiosity drew us in.
At one point we found ourselves trapped in a human traffic jam—crowds pushing from both directions until everything locked up completely. It felt uncomfortably like the crowd-crush stories you read about in the news. When a fight broke out nearby, our enthusiasm for medinas evaporated entirely. We squeezed our way out and decided our souk-browsing days might be behind us.
Less Desirable Destination
Another contrast with Morocco became clear during the trip. Morocco has mastered the art of presenting its traditions as experiences for visitors—hammams, music, dance, and even the famously pungent leather tanneries (with sprigs of mint handed out to help visitors survive the smell).
Tunisia feels less curated. The historical sites are impressive, but outside of those there’s less effort to turn everyday culture into something travelers easily discover.
Historically, Tunisia sits at a crossroads of civilizations. Berber peoples lived here first, followed by Phoenician traders who built Carthage. Rome conquered the region in 146 BCE and ruled it for centuries before Arab Muslim armies arrived in the 7th century. Later came Ottoman rule, then French colonial control beginning in 1881. Tunisia finally gained independence in 1957 under Habib Bourguiba.
All of these layers left their mark. Roman coins are still discovered during excavations, and archaeologists continue uncovering new mosaics and ruins.
Yet after seeing so much of North Africa on this journey, Tunisia left me with mixed feelings.
The ruins were fascinating—especially Carthage and El Djem—but Egypt dazzled us with monumental antiquities, and Morocco captivated us with its culture and energy. Tunisia sat somewhere between the two: pleasant and interesting, but rarely surprising.
What I will remember most clearly, however, is the coast.
Our small seaside hotel overlooked the Mediterranean. In the evenings the light softened across the water as the call to prayer drifted over the town. Fishing boats bobbed quietly in the harbor, and the air smelled faintly of salt and jasmine.
In those moments Tunisia felt less like a destination competing with its neighbors and more like what it truly is: a calm corner of the Mediterranean where centuries of civilizations have come and gone, leaving behind fragments of their stories in stone.