Note: I used AI to enliven this blog
We’ve been in Africa for about five months, and by now we’ve gotten the drill down for arriving in a new place. The routine goes something like this:
- Does the Wi-Fi work? It says it’s connected… but will it actually work? And will it stop working randomly? Of course it will.
- Will there be hot water for a shower? Maybe.
- Taxi? Restaurant? Shop? Crafts? The constant questions begin the moment you step outside. Then comes the mental gymnastics of figuring out a fair price and negotiating—again and again.
- The 5:00 a.m. mosque call to prayer, echoing across the landscape.
- Tap water? Don’t drink it.
- Addresses? Not really. Directions often involve landmarks and street names that change at every corner or alley.
- Eating customs. Sometimes with your hands – making sure the left hand stays away from the food.
- Bathrooms. Will it be a sit-down toilet with a seat, or a hole in the floor with a bucket to flush? And toilet paper? Don’t count on it.
- Airport surprises. Three or four security checks, separate male/female screening lines, binoculars banned in Ethiopia, nail scissors confiscated in Morocco.
That list might sound negative, but it’s really just the rhythm of adapting. Different infrastructure, different customs, different expectations. It’s part of what makes travel in Africa so adventurous, fascinating, and exotic.
Still… after months of this, stepping into a place where everything simply works feels like luxury. And that’s how Portugal felt.
Why Portugal?
Morocco sits just across the Strait of Gibraltar from Europe, so we decided to hop across for a couple of weeks in Portugal while we were nearby—and make a quick stop in Gibraltar to climb The Rock.
Then came a last-minute itinerary shake-up. Our plans for Jordan starting March 15 had to be scrapped due to the escalating conflict in the Middle East. Rather than navigate complicated visa processes or unstable situations in some other African countries, we pivoted.
So our evolving route looks like this:
Morocco → Gibraltar → Portugal → Tunisia → Italy → Namibia → South Africa → Madagascar → Kenya → London (+ countryside hike) → California for two months
Touring Portugal has been a joy. We visited Lisbon, the capital; Porto, the country’s second-largest city in the north; the Algarve region in the south; and Sintra – a beautiful hilly area where palaces and castles are in abundance. We even did our first driving in more than five months, renting a stick-shift car.
Suddenly we were surrounded by things we hadn’t realized we’d been missing:
- Clean streets
- Safe tap water
- Reliable, fast Wi-Fi
- Orderly driving
- Uber everywhere (when we didn’t want to drive)
- Spectacular pastry shops on nearly every corner
It was a reminder of how many conveniences we take for granted.
Lisbon: Hills, History, and Unexpected Museums
Lisbon is a city made for wandering. I loved running through the steep, winding streets, passing ornate buildings, statues, tiled facades, and fountains.
We went to several museums that offered fascinating perspectives on the city’s history.
Lisbon Stories sits right on the city square where many of Lisbon’s major events—protests, celebrations, coronations—have taken place. The museum walks visitors through the evolution of the city using an audio tour and engaging exhibits. The highlight was a simulation of the devastating 1755 earthquake, which destroyed much of Lisbon and reshaped its history.
Next was the Pharmacy Museum, which turned out to be far more interesting than the name suggests. Instead of focusing only on Portugal, it traces the story of medicine and healing across civilizations, showing how cultures around the world have battled disease and searched for cures.
The most surprising stop, though, was Casa-Museu Medeiros e Almeida, the former home of the wealthy collector António de Medeiros e Almeida (1895–1986). Having founded Portugal’s first automobile and aviation companies, he had the means—and the connections—to build a spectacular collection. His house is filled with art, sculpture, elaborate clocks, and exquisite furnishings from around the world. A short film about him revealed a man who was surprisingly humble, curious, and passionate about beautiful objects. By the end of the visit, you almost wish you could sit down with him and hear the stories behind each piece.
Porto: Friends, Port Wine, and a Fancy McDonald’s
The biggest excitement in Porto was getting to see my first manager from Salesforce, who retired four years ago. He and his wife decided to do something adventurous and moved to Porto to immerse themselves in a new culture and use it as a base for traveling around Europe.
Hearing what it takes to relocate internationally and pursue Portuguese residency makes your head spin—but there they were, happily settled in the heart of the city. We had a wonderful dinner together and caught up on life.
While in Porto we did a port wine tasting. To my surprise, I discovered I actually like tawny port—which is funny because I’ve never really enjoyed wine.
One of Porto’s quirkiest attractions is the McDonald’s Imperial, often called the most beautiful McDonald’s in the world. It features chandeliers, stained-glass windows, and grand décor. Ordering the same crappy McDonald’s food from sleek kiosks beneath crystal chandeliers was an amusing cultural mash-up.
My favorite place in Porto, though, was Livraria Lello, one of the most stunning bookstores anywhere. Its sweeping staircase and ornate interior supposedly helped inspire the look of Hogwarts in Harry Potter. The catch: it’s so famous that you have to buy a timed ticket just to enter, and once inside it’s packed with fellow admirers. Still, it’s worth seeing.
Algarve: Cliffs, Beaches, and a Little Luxury
After Porto we drove south to the Algarve, Portugal’s famous coastal region. It’s easy to see why it’s such a popular summer destination: wide beaches, dramatic cliffs above the Atlantic, sparkling water, and golf courses everywhere.
Thanks to Mike’s hotel-points wizardry, we stayed in two rather swanky resorts. One even had an 18-hole mini-golf course, and at this time of year, we ended up having it completely to ourselves.
After months of constant movement, the Algarve offered a welcome pause. We spent time running along the coast, using the gym and sauna, and simply relaxing.
We even went to see an American movie at the theater. In Portugal, films are usually shown in their original language with subtitles rather than dubbed, which made it feel a little like home.
Sintra: Fairy-Tale Palaces and an Imposing Hilltop Castle
Sintra sits just outside Lisbon, but as you approach it, the atmosphere changes quickly. Suddenly, rising above the hills in the distance, you spot what looks like a storybook palace, and it feels as though you’ve slipped out of the modern world and into something far older and more magical.
The whole area is green, lush, and hilly, threaded with walking paths that wind through forests and around palaces and castles. At the center is a charming village square, surrounded by beautiful historic buildings, cafés, and shops. Best of all, many of the major sites can be reached on foot, which suited us perfectly.
The weather during our visit was raw and very windy, which probably helped keep the crowds down. Even so, you could easily imagine how packed it must be during peak season. Still, the slightly wild weather added to the atmosphere—mist, wind, and castles perched on hilltops made the whole place feel even more dramatic.
Honestly, Sintra is one of those places that’s hard to describe. You really have to see it for yourself.
Here are the highlights we explored:
Pena Palace – The iconic fairy-tale palace, perched high above everything in bright colors and whimsical architecture. It looks almost too fantastical to be real.
Moorish Castle – A commanding line of ancient stone walls and towers stretching across the highest ridge in the area. Walking along the battlements gives sweeping views over Sintra, the forests below, and all the way to the Atlantic.
National Palace of Sintra – Located right in the heart of the village, recognizable by its two giant conical chimneys. This palace offers a glimpse into centuries of Portuguese royal life.
Quinta da Regaleira – Perhaps the most mysterious of them all. The palace itself is ornate and baroque, but the real magic is in the grounds. The highlight is the Initiation Well, essentially an inverted tower that descends deep into the earth. You spiral down a staircase to the bottom of the well, then wander through a network of tunnels and caves connecting different parts of the estate.
Sintra feels like a place where history, fantasy, and landscape all blend together. Castles on ridges, palaces tucked into forests, hidden tunnels under gardens—it’s the kind of place that makes you feel like you’ve stepped into a fairy tale for the day.